Monday, August 11, 2008

The Germans and the French

When one goes to Europe, the weight of history seems (and is) so much stronger than it is in the United States. Certainly this is particularly true of the relationship between the French and the Germans. Americans – of course – are unconcerned about history of any kind, much less European history. In considering French/German relations, most would think back only to World War II or, if they are older, perhaps World War I. (Though I need to add that I wouldn’t be at all surprised to find that 50% of Americans under 30 don’t know anything substantial about World War II.) But, to really understand the French/German relationship one must certainly go back much farther in time. At the very least, one must throw into the mix Napoleon’s invasion and occupation of Germany, as well as the Franco-Prussian war.

I don’t really have the space here, nor the inclination or, most certainly, the expertise to discuss the complications of the relationship between these two fine countries and their wonderful people. But, a few morsels follow as food for thought.

We are staying in Baden-Baden, a town of 50,000 inhabitants, which lies 10 kilometers from the French border. It is a place of stunning beauty and incredible cultural richness. It is an international destination popular for its famous baths, for classical music year round, for its fine restaurants and hotels, and so much more. Tourists come from all over the world to experience this incredible place. So, do the French also cross the border to appreciate this wonderland in their backyard? Apparently, no. One hears very, very little French around town. Mais, pourquoi pas?

When I mentioned to Peter how nice everybody in France was to us, he said – “ah, but you are Americans.” Now – as I have already mentioned – Peter is the nicest person in the world. Thus, he wouldn’t say that with no reason. And, Peter lived in France for many years, worked for a French company, and his son went through the French school system and is, for all intents and purposes, French. Peter is not a knee-jerk anti-French person by any means. So, when he tells me that the reception can be hostile to Germans by some French people, I am inclined to believe there is some truth to it.

When we were discussing the relationship of the French and Germans with a delightful German friend of Peter’s, she told us that when she hears someone speaking French when she is in America (where she lives 4 months of the year), she switches to English as a defensive measure. Wow.

And, finally, I actually witnessed a troubling encounter between a young French woman and Peter. We were at a concert with table seating. The tables were very tightly packed together and one needed to cooperate with the neighboring tables to orchestrate it so everyone could get comfortable. This particular woman pushed her chair into Peter’s chair – and kept pushing. When he asked her to please move a bit so he had some room, she really let him have it. It was bizarre actually and, indeed, incredibly rude. (While this was happening on one side of the table, by contrast, I became fast friends with a man named Wolfgang when I stepped on his toes.) Peter turned to me and said – “so, is this the nice French people that you talk about?” Leslie and I contended that it had nothing to do with the fact that she was French and everything to do with the fact that she was a complete jerk. Peter good-naturally agreed. Nonetheless, would it had been different with me? Would her reception to me – an obvious American - have been much nicer and more accommodating? Je ne sais pas…..But, I do now wonder.