Saturday, June 21, 2008

France Trip # 4

I have been to France three times, but as a complete and total English speaker. This time, I will be able to speak a little French as I put in two quarters of study and lots of practice. Before I begin my trip and related blog about my fourth trip to France, I thought a review was in order.

Trip 1 to southern France for two weeks (1999)

On my first trip, I jotted a pro/con list of impressions of the difference between the two experiences on my first trip (Californian versus French) - but it was entirely superficial because I didn't speak the language at all. But, for historical purposes, I think I should publish the original list. Much is in jest because how else could it be? Nonetheless, here were my pros:

  • people kiss on greeting and parting
  • not weird about female nudity and not as weird about sex in general
  • wine is a much better value
  • bidets
  • local markets
  • wholesome bars (coffee in the morning, a drink in the afternoon - buy stamps there!)
  • clocks on the highways
  • more clocks in general everywhere
  • dogs
  • traffic circles
  • cute little cars
  • speed limits are better
  • outdoor cafes
  • freedom of outdoor alcohol movement (not in cages like they are here in Santa Cruz)
  • fountains
  • trash can on table
  • nutella at breakfast
  • bread
  • food is a much better value
And here are the cons
  • towels
  • more sexist than here
  • everyone thinks I am a guy
  • pillows
  • no coffee with desserts
  • seeded grapes
  • not enough hugging
  • washing machines
  • salad course at the wrong time in the menu
  • not enough ice
  • no butter with dinner and lunch
  • traffic signals
  • bells ringing all the damn time
  • the Mediterranean (as compared to the Pacific Ocean)
  • traffic signals and signs
  • house numbering
And - neither a pro or a con but something I noticed: "people make out here a lot"

You will note there is nothing on my con list such as "people are rude". Pourquoi pas? Because, they weren't! In fact, I have spent a total of 8 weeks in France in my life and met hundreds of French people and I didn't speak their language and they were all very, very nice! Ok, not every single last one. There was a curt cashier at the metro once. And a waitress at the bistro was impatient with us (but friendly two days later when we saw her again.) But, that is it. Everyone else was very kind and nice. And, given the reputation - I expected some rude! I have talked to friends with rude stories - elaborate, true-sounding rude stories. They are great stories. Scary stories. Really rude French folks in the stories. For the record, most of the rude French stories involved a very wealthy person or a long-suffering bureaucrat. Both categories of folks often are rude wherever you find them. Suffice it to say, I have not personally found any truth to the stereotype.

Now, I did follow Laura's (my sister-in-law) rule at all times. Which is that one must say "Bonjour, madame", "Bonjour, monsieur", etc when beginning a conversation with a French person you don't know. Could it be these are magic words that unlock the sweet souls of the French? And that, if one does not say it, they become these rude monsters? Perhaps....I didn't experiment with the alternative. And, I don't think you should either. When in France - follow Laura's rule of greeting. And, stay away from bureaucrats and rich people. I think you will be pleased.

Trip 2 (to Paris in 2002)

We houstraded for a month in the Butte Aux Cailles area of Paris (the 13th) and it was fabulous. I sent emails to my work crew (at UCSC - students between 19-22) letting them know the low-down. And, as always, I made more lists. Here is a list I entitled: What the French clearly do better. I had explanatory notes with it - but I don't think you need them.

1. Wine (better value)
2. Bread
3. Sidewalk cafes
4. 15% tip included
5. Public transporation
6. Cheese
7. Most food is better consistently
8. More dogs, more places
9. Kissing when greeting

And then, the "what the French do wrong list" (with explanations)

1. The computer keyboard There are some differences that are neutral (the a, m, n, x, z, etc are in different locations.) The things that is crazy, though, is that you have to shift for a period! If you don't shift, you get the semi-colon. What the hell is up with that? They use periods at the end of sentences just like us. You also have to shift for numbers which is lame, as well.
2. They are too rigid about coffee They are inflexible about when you can have cream - only in the mornings is it ok. And, worse, they won't bring your coffee until after you dessert is finished. They don't drink coffee with their dessert! That is just very nuts.
3. Pillow Rolls They don't have American pillows here. They have these hard huge rolls. Even when they have a somewhat normal looking American-like pillow, they tend to be bulky and hard. Apparently, pillows are optional in France, as our hosts asked us if we planned on using a pillow when staying at their house. I suppose that given the choice of one of those stupid pillow rolls or nothing, many people do go without.
4. The negative side of dogs Yes, there is a lot of dog shit on the streets and one must keep a sharp eye. However, the city of Paris is very clean. The little green men are everywhere (sanitation workers). But, so are the dogs. It is a continual war of dog shit verses the little green men but dogs clearly have the advantage.
5. No doggie bags You would think with all the dogs and all the restaurants, there would be a lot of doggie bags. But, it isn't considered proper to take home leftover food or wine. (Of course, people bring their dogs to the restaurant and the dog eats the leftovers right then and there, I suppose.) To solve this problem, Leslie and I just carry plastic bags and, when no one is looking (except the dogs), we dump our food leftovers in the bag. VoilĂ ! We - reluctantly, of course - have to drink all the wine.
6. Clothing (gender) rigidity. One of the reasons that the French constantly think I am a guy is that I wear clothes that are exclusively worn by guys in France. You know what I mean - jeans, t-shirts and sweatshirts. While women wear jeans, they are designer jeans. No 501s (or the equivalent) for them. Women rarely wear t-shirts unless they, too, are designed only for women. Ditto sweatshirts. Essentially, there is no uni-sex clothing in France. It is so much easier being a transvestite in the USA! (Ed note: In 2007, we hosted an 18-year old French student, Judith, for three weeks. She explained to me that French women do wear uni-sex clothing - they just won't do it outside their home.)

Trip 3 to Paris for two weeks (in 2005)

I didn't really make lists. But, I did notice how much the toilets had improved. When I went in 1999 - lots of pit toilets. By the time we came in 2005, the toilets were art pieces! Damn, you must check out the toilets of Paris.

Trip 4 to Paris and Nancy beginning July 12th.

I will make some notes before the trip to put it in context. But, just wanted to record the history.