Thursday, August 21, 2008

Pour les personnes que j’ai rencontrés en France

Je veux remercier chacun que nous avons rencontré de la région Lorraine de faire un accueil chaleureux à nous. Toute le monde était si gentil. Merci !! Vous êtes très bienvenu de rester chez nous si vous venez à Santa Cruz dans l'avenir. Judith a l’adresse !

En particulier, bien sûr, je dois remercie ma belle amie, Judith, et ses parents incroyables, Roby et Agnès. Ils nous ont donné une bienvenue extraordinaire. Grâce à eux, nous avons eu une opportunité rare pour deux voyageuses – à connaître une région de l’intérieur. Aussi, nous nous sentons si heureux que nous avons eu la bonne chance de passer beaucoup de temps avec leur famille et les amis de Judith.

Notre séjour dans la région sera toujours un souvenir précieux.

Gros bisous à tous!

Last trip blog (in English)

Well, I am on the plane to the USA. This, therefore, will be the final English language blog of this trip. (As you can infer, I will do a post in French as well.) However, I have sort of liked doing this so I think I will continue it during our Hawaii trip. We are gone from September 16 – January 13th.

I thought I should add to my list of a things I like better in France (and Germany) as my final blog.

1. Trash can technology – in both the last two places I stayed, you open a door, the trash can comes out and the lid opens. Now, we probably have these trash cans somewhere in the US – but everyone was amused that I liked them so much as they are normal in Europe.

2. Toilet technology - I believe that the Japanese and Koreans are the world leaders here, but Europe has quickly adopted really good toilets that use very little water. We are way behind.

3. Lights on timed switches or motion detectors in hallways and stairwells - Every place we stayed, the lights in public halls and stairwells were off unless one actively turned on the switch (but it would turn off soon after) or a motion detector that also went off quickly. Why do we leave lights burning all the time in the same situation?

4. You have to bring your own bag to a grocery store or pay for a bag. Therefore, everybody brings there own bag and paper/plastic isn’t wasted.

5. In Paris, you must open the door on the subways. In every American subway that I have been on, all the doors open automatically at every stop. Now, I am stupid when it comes to subway technology – but I bet it uses less energy the French way.

6. All the toll takers in France are so nice! (This is a repeat but it delights me so much.) We went through about 14 tolls booths. They always say “Bonjour” or “Bonsoir”. They always say “Merci”. I don’t know about you – but, in America, I always say hello to the toll taker and thank you after they take the money and they never respond. They look so sour. We need French toll-takers!

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Fishermen, horsewomen, and operaland

Everyone needs to find the thing that puts them at peace, where the day-to-day cares of the world recede and perfection seems possible – if for just short moments. For my host, Roby, that thing is fishing. I had the privilege of entering his world for 6 hours when we went to his secret spot on a nearby river where he patiently shared his expertise with me. Of course, the instructions were in French, as he doesn’t really speak English. And, as I mentioned, my comprehension of French is around 30%. So, perhaps, my learning curve was slower than it would normally be. But, no matter, it worked. Roby was very patient as he dealt with my multiple fishing line tangles. In between tangles, it was so peaceful. So perfect. Time to just let the mind wander and contemplate.

I thought of all the fishermen I knew – quite a large number – along with the fact that I don’t know any fisherwomen. I wonder why this particular passion seems to attract men more than women? And, then I thought of our visit the day before to see the equestrian center where Judith used to ride. We went there to see Amelie ride. (She is a Judith’s friend who we met last summer in Santa Cruz.) It was a world of women. Oh, there was a man here or there, but anyone who spends time at equestrian centers in Europe or the United States knows that it is a world dominated by women. I know lots of horsewomen, but no horsemen. Fishing for men? Horses for women? What is up with that? I don't know. Please explain it to me if you understand it. Regardless, I do know that they both have the same function. The escape from the stresses of life. The time to just be in the moment… at peace.

For me, it’s opera. Not all operas. Not all the time. But, there is nothing that is better at creating serenity for me than really listening to and feeling a full opera. The experience sometimes seems almost outside time and space. When I have this feeling, I say that I am in operaland.

I am pretty sure that Roby is in a similar mental space when everything is right – the weather is perfect, the fish are biting. I am sure he goes to fishland. And those women on their horses surely go to horseland.

But back to Roby and his fish. He is just so adorable with his beloved fish. He makes food for the fish. He made some balls the size of big marbles for the carp; he makes balls the size of little marbles for some medium-sized fish and he makes some other concoction for the little fishes. (I have no idea what is in the food as he told me it all in French – but it looked and smelled like fish would like it.) When he first showed me this stuff, I just thought it was bait. But, no – the river is like his huge aquarium and he wants them all to be really well fed. So, after we finishing fishing for the day, he slingshots the big balls to the carp (that he indicated hang out up the river from his secret spot), tossed the medium sized balls a bit closer and threw in a bunch of the other concoction all around for the little fish. Now, a cynic might think that he is doing that only so the fish want to remain around this particular spot so he can later catch them. And, sure, that is true, too. But, I tell you – he also just loves his fish. And, I love him for how much he loves his fish.

Our host family

Merci Judith, Roby, Agnes et Guillaume!!!

Je suis différente et difficile

I think there is something really wrong with me. Other people seem to really like seeing pretty or ‘interesting’ things – like forests and fields of flowers and old ruins and castles and quaint villages and grand cathedrals. All I can do as I go from field to village to forest and back again is to hear Ronald Reagan in my mind…”If you have seen one ……, you have seen them all”. He was talking about redwoods, of course – but it works for everything.

What do I like? People, people and more people. Can’t get enough of them. Watching people, talking with people, talking about people, meeting people, communicating with people. When people are the focus - at a meal, for instance - I have been really happy. But, when walking and driving to see buildings or landscapes is the focus, I have been, well, quite difficult.

Agnes and Roby, the parents of Judith, have been extraordinary hosts here in the Lorraine. They, along with Judith, have pulled out all the stops to introduce us to their region and their family. It has been an amazing opportunity and I have enjoyed every second when people have been the focus. Even though 90% of the conversations have been in French and I only understand, perhaps, 30% - this remains true. Roby has cooked three delicious meals. Judith threw a fantastic party where she introduced us to her 15 closet friends. Yesterday, we had a wonderful meal that Rose Marie, Roby’s mom, cooked for the family and the family of Roby’s brother. We had a great tea with Agnes’ mom, Colette. Several great meals out – one with Agnes’ totally cool sister, Valerie. Wine has flowed freely. What could be better? People, food and wine. My favorite things. We have been extremely privileged to be invited into their home and lives. I feel so lucky.

And yet – you know I am getting back to the “but” – I began to really dislike daytrips to see anything. Agnes wanted to show us the area and planned a series of daytrips around the Alsace/ Lorraine region. A normal person – like Leslie, for example – seems to enjoy this sort of excursion. But things – and I don’t care how ‘beautiful’ or ‘magnificent’ or ‘quaint’ or ‘ancient’ – leave me cold most of the time. Occasionally, for a brief moment – something strikes me as interesting. I remember thinking the Metz cathedral was pretty cool, for example. It reminded me of a particular set from the Lord of the Rings. Ummm…. Ummmm. Can’t think of anything else. See, I am not normal at all! I am a different kind of person!

And, even though I do like food a lot, I was constantly saying "no" to various offers of this kind of food or that kind of food, I asked Judith what the word for picky was in French and she said difficile. I said - but what do you use for a generally fussy person: difficile. Ok, I embrace it as it works for me both ways on this trip. Je suis differente et difficile!

This fact about me has made me feel bad and guilty, of course. Our hosts – particularly Agnes - have been totally enthusiastic to show us the area that their families have lived for many generations and I am not – quite obviously – appreciative enough. What a horrible person I am!

As already discussed in the July 17th blog entitled Why Leslie’s IQ is 14 points higher than mine, Leslie is the far more curious and well-rounded person. As always, she is interested in everything. Taking pictures, asking questions – soaking it all in. I do like watching her enjoy everything.

And then there is Agnes. She is a force of nature. Absolutely extraordinary. She is like Leslie - interested in everything, curious about everything – but also has this amazing stamina (unlike Leslie). She is fearless and lots of fun. I also love watching her. I have adored all the times we have been sitting around the house or at a restaurant talking. But, she is really quite the taskmaster. Go, Go, Go. Allez, allez, allez. I do have a relative who is very similar, my sister-in-law Tobae. The difference is that I don’t feel obligated with Tobae to go on her many adventures – her entreaties fall on deaf ears. But, how could I say no to this astonishing host?

Somehow I found a way. I just had to “come out” as the different and difficult person that I am, as I couldn’t stand one more daytrip. And, Agnes adapted quickly to my personality quirks without taking, I think, any offense. She and Leslie now roam the countryside together while I sit at home writing this. They are at some 10th century church as this very moment. But, you know, I really think that if you have seen one church, you’ve seen them all.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Love those bises...

I just adore the bises in France. Absolutely my favorite thing. This is when French friends (and usually acquaintances) exchange kisses on alternating cheeks upon meeting and separating. It is just so sweet. In the morning, the very first thing, Judith, Roby et Agnes (and also Leslie!) give me bises. When we go to bed, I get bises. When they go out, I get bises. Lots of bises. It is so fun!

I have no idea what size group is necessary to stop the practice of everyone giving everyone else bises upon greeting (and parting) but I now know from experience that 15 isn’t too much. Judith had a party of that size to introduce us to her friends. And, when the last three came in, they methodically moved around a very cramped table to impart the bises to each person in turn. (Leslie filmed these particular bises. We will be happy to show you the ‘native customs’ when we return.)

As we all know, in the United States there might be a hug for your close friends in a group that size. But, no way would we walk around hugging, kissing or otherwise acknowledging each person in turn. Just would not happen.

I really hate to be repetitive – but it is just so damn sweet.

Friday, August 15, 2008

Some Generalizations: Jehovah’s Witnesses and German drivers

As human beings are wired to do, I seek patterns to make sense of the world. From these perceived patterns come generalizations that – hopefully - contain some truth that helps me successfully navigate my way in the world. Of course, when you meet an individual such generalizations must be held very, very loosely. I have made some gross generalizations in this blog and will continue to do so. But, individual people are always so damn unique!

For instance, Judith has a friend who is a Jehovah’s Witness (JW). Ok – I need to admit right now that I have only met JWs at my door when they were evangelizing and have found them to be the closest thing to zombies that I have ever met. (Think Invasion of the Body Snatchers). So – the pattern is: JWs are zombie-like. Generalization: JWs must be dumb and lack critical thinking skills. I think it is clear that I have a prejudice against JWs. But, Judith likes this woman a lot – so I was sure that she would not meet the pattern. And, indeed she did not. She was absolutely charming, intelligent and – this is an aside but feels relevant – a knockout. So, I will admit, I assumed that it must be her parents that were the zombies.

Totally wrong. Judith’s friend and her mother came by Judith’s house for a visit and the mom was also absolutely charming, intelligent and very, very talkative. Ok, she was speaking rapidly in French so I probably only caught 20% - but it was a charming 20%. She had absolutely no zombie-like qualities. So, the pattern is totally broken, the prejudice is exploded. (I have to add at this point that even though I had this horrible, now-proven-wrong prejudice against the people who practice the JW religion – I have long loved them because of their fight for our first amendment rights. If you don't know this history, please read this to get the gist of how crucial JWs were to the expansions of our basic freedoms: http://www.adherents.com/largecom/jw_freedom.html
It is because of them, for instance, that this atheist wasn’t required to stand and say the pledge of allegiance at school.)

Interestingly, when Judith’s JW friend and mom came over, the subject turned to Germans. The mom was talking about how much she hated the German language – how difficult it was. But, then she added that as much as she hated the language, she loved the people because they were so polite. And, everyone there (all French folks) quickly agreed that Germans are more polite than the French – particularly when it comes to driving. Given my last blog, I thought it was important to add this in….

Speaking as a person trying to learn French, I did find it amusing that she was talking about how hard German is to learn. I understand that German has its difficulties with declensions and all that. But for an English speaker, German has some real advantages. Consider these two sentences:

Was ist das?
Qu’est-ce que c’est que ça?

The meaning of both is: What is that?

The German seems straightforward to me and one can easily learn - and say correctly - three German words with that sentence. But, what the hell is going on in the French? Where is what? Where is is? Where is that? And how the hell do you prounounce that, anyway?

And she thinks German is hard????